There is a common issue with the fuel level sender units in Nissan vehicles. The trends are that the senders start failing before the 100k miles; that is actually way below the fuel pump life expectancy, which is around 200k miles. If your vehicle still is under warranty, it is advised to take your car to your Nissan dealer and fix it usually at no cost; also, you can research online to see if there are some recalls in your vehicle.The advantage of doing this is that you will receive a new fuel pump.
When the fuel level sender units fail, you will start having erratic fuel gauge reading where you may have the gauge showing an empty tank when you actually have a full tank. It may also stay at a same spot all the time regardless of full or empty tank. Another symptom is a malfunction lamp illumination with the code reading P0463. This code tells you that the PCM is sensing a high voltage output indicating that an unreasonable fuel level meaning that the tank has an impossible level of fuel.
In my case, I had a 2006 Nissan Murano with this issue; this vehicle comes with two fuel level sending units: one that goes in the driver's side attached to the fuel pump and the second in the passenger's side attached to a hanger. Both units were faulty. Similar vehicles that bring this setup include only the Nissan 350Z to my knowledge. However, the 350Z does not share the same part numbers with the Murano. This article specifically applies to Nissan Murano's ranging from 2003 to 2006 for both 2WD and AWD. For this job you will need a socket set, flat screwdrivers, rags, a small hammer, a 4 inch PVC coupling (you may need it, trust me), and both level sending units (left and right). The level sending units I will be using are Dorman 911-054 for the left one and Dorman 911-042 for the right one. The price for both and shipping summed to $80 from Rockauto.com. I chose to replace both units because is one of those jobs that you replace the faulty sending unit and at the few days the other one goes bad giving you the same problem.
To begin, it is important to disconnect the battery especially that you will working with fuel; you do not want anything that can produce spark and initiate a fire. It just takes a little spark to ignite gasoline vapors. The fuel pump and and the hanger have an access door below the rear seat. You will not need to remove the fuel tank for this vehicle. You will need to unbolt the rear seat in both left and right rear seats; they are bolted to the floor by two bolts. I do not remember their size but they range from 12mm to 14mm. After removing the bolts, the seats will rock up and you can hold them with the seat belts so they do not bother you. In the floor you will see two access doors--one left and one right--that are hold by four rotating latches in each side; you turn them counterclockwise which makes them to align with the door slots.
Then, you will see the fuel pump lines and the fuel pump holder ring. The lines have a green clip with two ears that you push at the time time allowing you to slide out the lines from the pump. You will need to remove the electrical connection from the fuel pump and then with a screwdriver and hammer you will make the ring turn counterclockwise. You need to give firm blows to the screwdriver in order to make the ring to turn. Sometimes, there may dirt that can make the ring hard to turn. Some PB Blaster or other penetrating oil may help in making the ring easier to turn.
Then, you can gently pull the fuel pump and slightly tilt it to the left so the other line in the bottom of the fuel pump can slide through the opening. There, you will need to remove that line that connects to the other side of the fuel tank as well as the electrical connection coming from the other level sending unit. After that, you will need to pull the pump and tilt it to the right so the sending unit leveler can go through the tank opening.
You will need to drain the gas from the fuel pump reservoir after pulling it out; you may need the rags in order to clean the possible spilled gas in the floor. The same procedure is needed for removing the other unit.
Having
the pump and subassembly outside, you can now replace the sending
units. In the case of the fuel pump, you will need to disconnect the
wires going to the cover as depicted in the picture. After replacing
both units, it is time to put everything back to the fuel tank. First,
you need to install the subassembly and fish the wires and line to the
the left side of the tank. You will need to install the new seal that
comes with your new unit and installed it to the cover. When you insert the subassembly, you will need to push the cover and install the ring. This is PITA when you need to turn the ring clockwise and lock it in. That is why you need the 4" PVC coupling that fits perfectly with the ring bead. So, the way I installed is you push the cover with the new seal with one hand and while holding in place, you put the ring without letting go the cover. Then, you will place the coupling in top of the ring without letting go and push from the coupling. Further, you will place now your foot on the coupling without letting go the pressure and that will allow you to have your both hands free: one for the screwdriver and one for the hammer. Then you will whack the ring in order to turn it clockwise while maintaining the pressure with your foot in the coupling. You may have some failed attempts before but definitely you can install it that way. Also, a helper makes the process faster since they can stand in the coupling while you hammer the ring in position. I lost the picture about that process but when I have car from my client for maintenance, I will take it and update the post. After installation, reconnect the battery and the PCM will be reseted already so no need to plug a scanner for erasing the code.
This should fix the problem for the erratic fuel gauge reading and especially the P0463 code.
Thanks.
When the fuel level sender units fail, you will start having erratic fuel gauge reading where you may have the gauge showing an empty tank when you actually have a full tank. It may also stay at a same spot all the time regardless of full or empty tank. Another symptom is a malfunction lamp illumination with the code reading P0463. This code tells you that the PCM is sensing a high voltage output indicating that an unreasonable fuel level meaning that the tank has an impossible level of fuel.
In my case, I had a 2006 Nissan Murano with this issue; this vehicle comes with two fuel level sending units: one that goes in the driver's side attached to the fuel pump and the second in the passenger's side attached to a hanger. Both units were faulty. Similar vehicles that bring this setup include only the Nissan 350Z to my knowledge. However, the 350Z does not share the same part numbers with the Murano. This article specifically applies to Nissan Murano's ranging from 2003 to 2006 for both 2WD and AWD. For this job you will need a socket set, flat screwdrivers, rags, a small hammer, a 4 inch PVC coupling (you may need it, trust me), and both level sending units (left and right). The level sending units I will be using are Dorman 911-054 for the left one and Dorman 911-042 for the right one. The price for both and shipping summed to $80 from Rockauto.com. I chose to replace both units because is one of those jobs that you replace the faulty sending unit and at the few days the other one goes bad giving you the same problem.
To begin, it is important to disconnect the battery especially that you will working with fuel; you do not want anything that can produce spark and initiate a fire. It just takes a little spark to ignite gasoline vapors. The fuel pump and and the hanger have an access door below the rear seat. You will not need to remove the fuel tank for this vehicle. You will need to unbolt the rear seat in both left and right rear seats; they are bolted to the floor by two bolts. I do not remember their size but they range from 12mm to 14mm. After removing the bolts, the seats will rock up and you can hold them with the seat belts so they do not bother you. In the floor you will see two access doors--one left and one right--that are hold by four rotating latches in each side; you turn them counterclockwise which makes them to align with the door slots. 
Then, you can gently pull the fuel pump and slightly tilt it to the left so the other line in the bottom of the fuel pump can slide through the opening. There, you will need to remove that line that connects to the other side of the fuel tank as well as the electrical connection coming from the other level sending unit. After that, you will need to pull the pump and tilt it to the right so the sending unit leveler can go through the tank opening.You will need to drain the gas from the fuel pump reservoir after pulling it out; you may need the rags in order to clean the possible spilled gas in the floor. The same procedure is needed for removing the other unit.
Having
the pump and subassembly outside, you can now replace the sending
units. In the case of the fuel pump, you will need to disconnect the
wires going to the cover as depicted in the picture. After replacing
both units, it is time to put everything back to the fuel tank. First,
you need to install the subassembly and fish the wires and line to the
the left side of the tank. You will need to install the new seal that
comes with your new unit and installed it to the cover. When you insert the subassembly, you will need to push the cover and install the ring. This is PITA when you need to turn the ring clockwise and lock it in. That is why you need the 4" PVC coupling that fits perfectly with the ring bead. So, the way I installed is you push the cover with the new seal with one hand and while holding in place, you put the ring without letting go the cover. Then, you will place the coupling in top of the ring without letting go and push from the coupling. Further, you will place now your foot on the coupling without letting go the pressure and that will allow you to have your both hands free: one for the screwdriver and one for the hammer. Then you will whack the ring in order to turn it clockwise while maintaining the pressure with your foot in the coupling. You may have some failed attempts before but definitely you can install it that way. Also, a helper makes the process faster since they can stand in the coupling while you hammer the ring in position. I lost the picture about that process but when I have car from my client for maintenance, I will take it and update the post. After installation, reconnect the battery and the PCM will be reseted already so no need to plug a scanner for erasing the code.This should fix the problem for the erratic fuel gauge reading and especially the P0463 code.
Thanks.
Symptoms of a P0463 DTC may include:
Mil (Malfunction indicator lamp) illumination
Fuel level gauge may fluctuate abnormally or read empty or full
Fuel light may illuminate and sound alarm
Read more at: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0463
Copyright OBD-Codes.com
Read more at: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0463
Copyright OBD-Codes.com
Symptoms of a P0463 DTC may include:
Mil (Malfunction indicator lamp) illumination
Fuel level gauge may fluctuate abnormally or read empty or full
Fuel light may illuminate and sound alarm
Read more at: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0463
Copyright OBD-Codes.com
Read more at: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0463
Copyright OBD-Codes.com
Symptoms of a P0463 DTC may include:
Mil (Malfunction indicator lamp) illumination
Fuel level gauge may fluctuate abnormally or read empty or full
Fuel light may illuminate and sound alarm
Read more at: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0463
Copyright OBD-Codes.com
Read more at: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0463
Copyright OBD-Codes.com
Excellent post. Thank you much !
ReplyDeleteThank you! Glad it was helpful
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